Tag Archives: history

Ireland by the numbers

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  • first day, first Guinness
  • Newgrange, Neolithic passage tomb
  • Bray Head
  • Glendalough, Wicklow Mountains National Park
  • Rock of Cashel
  • sunshine!
  • Hore Abbey, County Tipperary
  • St. Colman’s Cathedral, Cobh
  • cliff walks!
  • Killarney National Park
  • Allihies, Beara Peninsula
  • stone forts
  • Valentia Island
  • Gap of Dunloe
  • Sybil Point and the Three Sisters, Dingle Peninsula
  • Cliffs of Moher
  • Inishmore, Aran Islands
  • Clonmacnoise
  • River Shannon
  • Clonmacnoise Castle
  • Killary Harbour
  • Downpatrick Head
  • sea pinks
  • Benbulben
  • Slieve League Mountain
  • Cumber Upper, County Derry, home of my great-grandfather
  • Ballintoy, Antrim Coast
  • McArt’s Fort, Belfast
  • months spent planning this trip: 3
  • books read in preparation: 18
  • films watched in preparation: 10
  • TV series watched in preparation: 5
  • days on the island: 83
  • cars rented: 3
  • jaunting cars rented: 1
  • miles driven: 3452
  • accidents or fender-benders: 0
  • countries visited: 2
  • counties visited:
    • Ireland: 22 of 26
    • Northern Ireland: 3 of 6
  • national parks visited: 5 of 6
  • fjords visited: 3 of 3
  • stone forts visited: 5
  • coastal rings driven: 3
  • days over 70°F: 1
  • hikes: 25
  • wild goats seen on hikes: 29
  • snakes seen on hikes: 0 (thank you, St. Patrick!)
  • bike rides: 1
  • yoga practices: 7
  • Airbnbs rented: 14
  • blogs written: 62
  • photos saved: 2762 
  • favorite pubs: 11 (of approximately 80)
  • delicious Irish craft IPAs: 12
  • Irish whiskeys sampled: 11
  • ginger snaps consumed: 166 (approximate)

Newgrange

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Newgrange on the horizon on our approach

England has its Stonehenge. Ireland has Newgrange. Built 1000 years or so before Stonehenge (based on carbon dating), or around 3200 BCE, Newgrange is completely different in design. It is a passage tomb, with underground burial chambers and a central stone passageway. The remains of five bodies were found inside, but there is no way to know who these people were. The tribe that built Newgrange had no written language or other means to record their thoughts or ideas. One thing is for certain, however: around 9:00 in the morning on and around the winter solstice, the sun’s rays come streaming through the window box over the entrance to Newgrange and fill a carved stone receptacle at the far end of the central passageway, today as it has for millennia. So perhaps this tomb was used for rituals, as well as burials.

Newgrange was discovered in the 1690s by His Majesty’s (King William of Orange) troops who were digging into the plush green earth along the River Boyne looking for stone to quarry. They found stone, alright, but unusual patterns of black and white stones that caused the men to alert their commanding officer. He halted the digging until they had a chance to excavate more carefully. Over the centuries, Newgrange has been excavated and reconstructed to archeologists’ best guesses at what the original design would have looked like. Can you imagine their delight when they discovered the winter sun shining through the window box?

window box over the entrance

There are other passage tombs throughout Ireland that have been discovered by farmers tilling soil or digging peat in bogland. At one time these structures were above ground, like Newgrange is today, but over time they have gradually been buried by accumulating detritus. The Irish government to date has not set a priority (i.e. funding) for excavating more than a few. Newgrange is their pride and joy, and it draws thousands of tourists every year. 

the top of another subterranean structure across the road

In a way, I like the mystery of not knowing what may be lurking beneath the turf of these subterranean discoveries. Like in the undisturbed fairy rings (ringforts) in Ireland, there could be entire communities of little people living under there—a veritable hornet’s nest of mischief—whom it’s probably best not to disturb. 🧚‍♀️

Rebellion

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Dublin’s General Post Office

The Irish War of Independence came to life for me when watching the mini-series, Rebellion, released on Netflix in 2016. Told from the perspective of three Dublin families, it highlights the impact of the revolution on three economic levels, from the affluent to the tenement. Brilliantly told, it details the six days of the 1916 Irish rising against the British government who had ruled Ireland, often tyrannically, for 800 years.

On Easter Monday, April 24, 1916, Irish rebels occupied the General Post Office in downtown Dublin, proclaiming Ireland’s independence from Great Britain and forcing Dubliners who generally were not in favor of independence—and certainly not open rebellion—to sit up and take notice. Heavily outmanned and outgunned, the rebels knew they could not win this battle and were booed by their countrymen as they were carted off to prison upon surrender. But public sentiment changed when seven of the rebel leaders were executed by the British in retaliation. James Connolly, dying of wounds received in the skirmish, couldn’t even sit up to face the firing squad. He was tied to a chair to be executed. They became martyrs in the six-year war that ensued.

The sequel mini-series, Resistance, was just released on Netflix this year, and is even better than the first one. It advances the story to 1920. We’re hoping they continue the saga. There’s a lot of fascinating history yet to tell. If you’ve got Netflix, it’s worth having a look to better understand the birth of this young republic, barely 100 years old.

We visited the General Post Office’s Witness History Museum. The exhibits, as well as the 15-minute film dramatizing the action all over the city as rebels squared off against the British Army on the day of the rising, were very well done. The Irish are extremely proud of their history, as well they should be. It takes a lot of courage to stand up to 800 years of suppression.

Cúchulainn

Displayed in the front window of the General Post Office is this sculpture created by Oliver Sheppard of the mythical Irish warrior Cúchulainn (as best as I can tell, pronounced Koo-HOO-lin). In one of the best loved Irish legends, Cúchulainn defended the Kingdom of Ulster (northern Ireland) against the armies of Queen Maeve of the Kingdom of Connacht (western Ireland) in the famous cattle raid of Cooley. (Keep in mind, in those days cattle were money and entire kingdoms went to war over a single bull.) Cúchulainn died in battle, but he stood up against the enemy to the very end by tying himself to a pillar as he died to intimidate the enemy. It wasn’t until they saw a raven land on his shoulder that they realized he was dead. This is the sort of valor the Irish cherish. It’s what defines them as a people, and how they came to see the rebels who sacrificed their lives to end the oppression the Irish had endured for centuries.

Happy days!

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Dublin from the air

I have read nothing but Irish literature, history, and mythology for the past five months, and enjoyed every word. (Well, almost. The Gaelic, or Irish, words are mystifying. Even when reading to myself, I try to hear them in my mind. Inevitably there are either too many consonants or too many vowels sequentially to even know where to begin. In the rare event that the author tries to help by spelling a word phonetically, I am dumbfounded. How do they get a “w” sound out of “dh”? A “c” followed by an “e” or “i” has a hard “k” sound, as in the Irish word for church, cille (pronounced “kill”). Irish, apparently, is not related to any of the languages I’ve ever studied.) So you can imagine my excitement on my very first introduction to Herself.

Upon our wake-up call at 6:00 on our approach to Dublin, Marcus noted that sunlight was edging over the horizon. I flipped up the window shade and watched the curtain going up on Ireland. The buffeting winds and thunderclouds we had been promised by the captain as we tumbled off into dreamland only a few hours before were only cottony wisps revealing teasing glimpses of fairy villages in the darkness below, twinkling like the proverbial pot of gold at the end of a rainbow. As Ireland rolled over to greet the sun, the darkness became a deep, emerald green. I smiled. Something tells me this is going to be an amazing trip. As the Irish say, “Happy days!”

Oh, Atlanta

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view of downtown Atlanta skyline from Piedmont Park

And so the 2018 Fall Family and Friends Road Trip draws to an end. We said goodbye to Chattanooga, and my nephew and his wife, and headed for home. Atlanta, Georgia, just happened to be directly in our path, so we thought we’d stop for a few days to see what the city has to offer. It’s been almost 40 years since we last visited.

I was immediately struck by how beautiful the city is—pleasantly hilly and beautifully wooded. I read somewhere that Atlanta is the most wooded metropolitan area in the US. The trees really make you feel more like you’re in the suburbs, rather than a sprawling city. Every section we drove through felt like a cozy neighborhood I could live in. I love the architecture of the homes. Most have a traditional, but modern, feel—lots of stately brick and stone. The more contemporary homes look stunning with all that wood and glass surrounded by trees. There’s new home construction everywhere.

potting shed in Piedmont Park–not your typical Atlanta architecture!

To see the city, we rented a tandem bike and rode the marvelous Eastside Beltline, a rails-to-trails convert. First stop was Jimmy Carter’s presidential library and museum. After visiting FDR’s library last spring in Hyde Park, I’m making a point of visiting every presidential library I come across. It’s fascinating to look back on the particular challenges each president faced while in office, especially given the perspective of time. To follow the issues while they are developing is completely different, I find, than seeing how they stand up in the context of American history.

Jimmy Carter Presidential Library and Museum

We continued north up the Beltline to the fabulous Ponce City Market where we stopped to have lunch at an amiable little Cuban restaurant. Then on to Piedmont Park, the crown jewel of Atlanta. Lots of greenery to take in and great views of the downtown skyline.

Martin Luther King, Jr. National Historic Site

On our return to the bike rental shop, we stopped at the Martin Luther King, Jr. National Historic Site. A touching tribute to a man who devoted his life to bringing about change on such an emotionally charged issue through non-violent means. That his life was ended prematurely by the violence he worked so hard to avoid is a genuine tragedy. 

tomb of Martin Luther King, Jr. and Coretta Scott King

Oh, Atlanta, we have enjoyed our time with you, but home beckons and we must go.

The Smoke at Dawn

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Chattanooga’s manhole covers

My first thought regarding Chattanooga, when I started planning this trip, was the Civil War battle that occurred there that some would argue was the death knell for the Confederacy. A year or so ago I read a biography of Ulysses Grant (a distant ancestor, I’ve since learned), and the Civil War battles in the western theater became more than just names of remote places. I began to understand the significance of Grant’s victories, not just in terms of land acquisition and enemy soldiers killed and captured, but also of gaining strategic control of the Mississippi River, closing off supply lines to the Confederacy, etc. It was an eye-opener.

Chickamauga and Chattanooga National Military Park

To better understand the battle in Chattanooga, and read it from a different author’s perspective, I chose Jeff Shaara’s The Smoke at Dawn. You may have heard of The Killer Angels, an historical fiction about the Battle of Gettysburg written by his father, Michael Shaara. It was made into a movie, Gettysburg, in 1993. It’s safe to say that that movie forever changed how I viewed the study of history. It transformed vague names in a textbook into people who once lived and breathed, loved and hated, and felt so compelled to preserve the way of life they valued that they went to war for it, sometimes against their own dearest friends and family members. It made history personal for me.

Chickamauga

After Michael Shaara’s death, his son Jeff wrote over a dozen novels about the Civil War. The books are based on extensive research into the politics of the times, the battles, and the men who orchestrated and fought them. For additional readability, Shaara added undocumented–but credible–dialog; hence his books are considered historical fiction.

Civil War memorial on Lookout Mountain, Chattanooga

So, back to Chattanooga…as we approached the city I started scanning the horizon for Lookout Mountain and Missionary Ridge, key geographical features in the evolution of the battle. When we went downtown for dinner that night, I looked again and was horribly confused. I kept looking for the mountain and the ridge across the Tennessee River from the city, but they were behind me. And then my nephew explained that after the war, they moved the city from the north side of the river to the south. I had so closely studied Shaara’s maps that I struggled with the orientation of the “new” Chattanooga the whole time we were there.

amazing views of Chattanooga and the Tennessee River from Lookout Mountain

When exploring the Battle of Chattanooga in situ, it’s best to start at Chickamauga, Georgia, just ten miles away. The Battle of Chickamauga happened just prior to that at Chattanooga, and the National Park Service has created one park to commemorate both battles. There wasn’t much to see about Chattanooga at the park, aside from an excellent movie in the visitor center that linked the two battles. After touring the park, we drove up Lookout Mountain. Point Park, on the mountaintop overlooking the city, is little more than a scenic overlook with very little information on the battle. I would have loved to see some informational plaques pointing out strategic landmarks of the battle. Ah, well, I’ve got vivid images in my head, thanks to the gift of a wonderful writer.

the Parkway

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Banner day on the Blue Ridge Parkway. Perfect weather after days of rain from the fringes of Hurricane Michael.

Construction of the Blue Ridge Parkway was started in 1935 in Franklin D. Roosevelt’s administration as a project of the Public Works Administration. The majority of it was completed by 1966, but the final piece–the viaduct around Grandfather Mountain in western North Carolina–was not opened to traffic until 1987. Part of our National Park system, it is America’s longest linear park and connects Shenandoah National Park in Virginia on the north end to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park in North Carolina on the south end–469 miles along the backbone of the Blue Ridge Mountains.

You know how I love my superlatives! We summited Mount Mitchell–a grueling 5-minute hike from the parking lot. ;o) Gorgeous views from the top.

blue ridges

 

Mid-October and the leaves are just starting to turn–quite late here. Word is that this fall won’t be very colorful. The temps have been in the 80s until recently, and now it’s too late for most of the leaves to turn. Green leaves are starting to fall.

Crabtree Falls–a rewarding two-hour hike from the parking lot

Assateague Island National Seashore

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We left Bethany Beach and drove down the Delmarva peninsula toward our next stop: Cape Charles, Virginia, on the eastern shore. Just south of Ocean City, Maryland, I saw a sign for Assateague Island National Seashore. I’ve always wanted to see the wild horses on the barrier islands of Assateague and Chincoteague since reading Misty of Chincoteague in fifth grade, but I had heard that the horses are only on the islands seasonally. So we stopped by Tourist Information to get the scoop. Turns out the horses are present on both islands year round. 

The woman at TI explained the difference between the horse habitats. Assateague Island is owned by the government and is maintained by the National Park Service. The horses there are wild; the only human intervention is birth control. Scientists discovered that if the horse population grew to over 100, the plant life on the island suffered, which affected the biological balance of the whole island–flora and fauna. So to strike a healthy balance, they allow each mare to foal only once. After the first foal, the mares are inoculated to prevent conception. This year’s census was in the low 80s, and the island is thriving.

On Chincoteague Island, the horses run wild but are technically owned by the Chincoteague Volunteer Fire Company. They control their horse population by rounding up some of the younger horses each summer to sell at auction to raise funds for the fire department.

We opted to visit Assateague, since Tourist Information was so close to the National Seashore entrance. It was a perfect-weather day for exploring the park. We saw probably 20 horses, some up close and others farther away, and we had a picnic lunch under the cedar trees on a bayside beach.

The horses are magnificent, and I commend our National Park Service for preserving their habitat so they can continue to run wild. The island is a beautiful place to visit. We especially loved the boardwalk through the salt marsh where we saw lots of wildlife.

On the Delaware shore

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observation tower at Cape Henlopen, Delaware

After Rockville, Maryland, we continued on our FFF (Family and Friends Fall) Road Trip to Bethany Beach, Delaware, where my brother and his wife have recently purchased a home. 

We love these concrete observation towers along the Delaware coast. Built from 1939 to 1942 to guard the entrance to Delaware Bay after world war broke out in Europe, there are eleven on the Delaware coast and two across the bay in New Jersey. They were built to last only 20 years, but are still standing after almost 80. (And, yes, I did go up in one, despite the rusty old stairs.) 

view of Delaware Bay from the top

German ships were a real threat to American shipping even before we were directly involved in the war. When the Luftwaffe was unsuccessful in defeating the Royal Air Force with its eleven-month campaign of daily air attacks against the UK (the Battle of Britain), Hitler shifted gears and imposed a naval blockade in the Atlantic, hoping to starve the British into surrender. German U-boats and destroyers patrolled off the US Atlantic coast looking for American ships headed to Britain that may contain relief supplies.

bunker with Howitzer guarding the bay

These towers are a poignant reminder, especially now that our Greatest Generation is almost gone, of the sacrifices Americans were asked to make to defend their homeland. I hope they last another eighty years. Thank you, Delaware, for honoring the memory of those who served.

Hot bar!

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The Fire Bar at Hawkeye’s

Recommended by our hosts at the B&B: The Fire Bar at the Hawkeye Bar & Grill at Cooperstown’s Otesaga Resort Hotel. Perfect spot to chill with a glass of wine, a bite to eat, and maybe even a game of bocce on the lawn, if you’re not too mesmerized by the view. 

The Otesaga Resort Hotel is located at the south end of Otsego Lake in the Village of Cooperstown, New York, and hearkens back to the day when people from the City spent their summers at grand hotels such as this. 

 

James Fenimore Cooper referred to Otsego Lake as Glimmerglass in his Leatherstocking Tales, a series of five novels featuring the character Natty Bumppo, also known as Hawkeye in The Last of the Mohicans, one of the Leatherstocking Tales. The lake also happens to be the source of the Susquehanna River, the 16th largest river in the United States, according to Wikipedia.

It’s no coincidence that Cooper’s stories took place in the area around Cooperstown. His father founded the village, and James grew up in what was then a 19th-century frontier town.

the sun setting on Glimmerglass (Otsego) Lake

The weather was perfect on this particular evening, a cloudless, late-spring promise of blissful summer days ahead. As the sun set we drew our chairs closer to the fire and watched for dugout canoes gliding silently across the Glimmerglass.