Killarney National Park, Part II

on the shores of Muckross Lake

The north end of Killarney National Park is distinguishable from the town of Killarney only by the wrought iron fence that surrounds it. Its open pedestrian gates and unrestricted entry give it more the feel of a town park than the sprawling 25,000-acre national park that it is. The park is comprised of two formerly privately owned 19th-century estates. The 11,000-acre Muckross estate was donated to the Free State of Ireland (the Republic, in its infancy) in 1932, creating the first national park in Ireland. A large portion of the almost-adjacent Killarney House estate was sold to the Republic in 1978 under the condition that it would be incorporated into the national park.

the rhodies are just starting to bloom

Today the park is dedicated to the conservation of several distinctive ecosystems: bogs, lakes, moors, mountains, rivers, woodlands, parks, and gardens. Of primary interest are the oak and yew woodlands. Two-thirds of the oak woodlands have been consumed by rhododendrons brought in from the Near East in the early 19th century to provide protective shelter for wild game. One flower can produce 3000-7000 seeds, and the branches take root wherever they touch soil. They absolutely thrive in the acid soil and mild, Gulf Stream climate of the park. The yews are being threatened by over-grazing.

The park has the most extensive covering of native (old growth) forest remaining in Ireland, and it’s home to the only red deer herd on the mainland.

Today we captured it all (minus the red deer) on one eight-mile hike around Muckross Lake, the middle of the three lakes of Killarney. Here’s a selection of what we saw.

Killarney National Park, Part I

southern entrance to Killarney National Park

Killarney National Park, more than 25,000 acres of lakes, woodlands, and mountains…. What’s not to love? There was so much I wanted to do in this park, I had to give it two days. 

First priority: Get out in it. The southern approach, from where we’re staying in Kenmare, took us through an incredible glacier-cut valley filled to the brim with spectacular scenery. And, as you can imagine, rollercoaster roads throughout as we rose and fell, dipped and swerved through the terrain.

the three lakes of Killarney

The primary attraction in this neck of the woods is the three lakes of Killarney. From Ladies View (so named because Queen Victoria’s ladies-in-waiting swooned as they took in the view on a visit with Her Majesty in 1861) you can see all three interconnected lakes as they stretch from south to north: Upper Lake, the smallest but highest in altitude; Muckross Lake, the deepest of the three; and way in the distance Lough Leane, by far the largest and the one that graces Killarney town. These three lakes comprise one quarter of the national park by area, and they are definitely swoon-worthy.

MacGillycuddy’s Reeks, Ireland’s tallest mountains, flank the west side of the park

Drowned rivers

the drowned Kenmare River

In my blog about the Beara Peninsula, I mentioned that what is referred to as the Kenmare River, the body of water between the Beara Peninsula and the Iveragh Peninsula, looks more like a bay–not only because of its width, but because there is no sense of it running into the sea as you would expect of a river. It looks more like, well, the sea itself.

I just learned that the Kenmare River is what is called a “drowned river.” During the last Ice Age, glaciers cut gorges between the harder rock of what are now the mountainous peninsulas. When the glaciers melted, water began to run off the land through these gorges into the sea, becoming rivers. But eventually the rivers deepened the gorges to the point where the level of the river was lower than sea level. Sea water began to backfill the gorges, “drowning” the rivers. What amazing geography!