High Desert Museum

We hesitated to spend the $15 per person admission price for this museum just south of Bend. $15 is not much for a quality museum, but you never know how good a local museum is going in. (I’ve long ago given up trusting online ratings.) But there was this ominous note on my typed travel itinerary: “Do it!” In red font. With the exclamation point. Can’t remember what motivated me to add that, but you can’t argue with that kind of message, so we went. And it was worth every penny.

Here’s what we liked.

Outstanding exhibit on the history of Oregon’s High Desert, including the portion of the Oregon Trail that ran through it. This is where the oxen and mules started to die from exhaustion and lack of food and water. Families who brought more than one wagon had to consolidate their belongings into one. Out went the cast iron stoves, furniture that had been in the family for generations, and other large items they had hauled for thousands of miles. Some families had to dispense with even functional, daily items like pots and pans and clothing. The High Desert was where the Oregon Dream began to fall apart for many.

abandoned dreams

abandoned dreams

Rescued animal presentations. Tumbleweed, the porcupine, was happy to share his lunch hour with us, eschewing the non-seasonal apple to chew on the more autumnal choices of pumpkin and parsnip. Does he know something we don’t know?

Tumbleweed

Tumbleweed

The river otters were absolutely delightful! They began a dizzying game of Follow-the-Leader throughout their newly constructed habitat—under the water, into their den, out the back exit to their island, back into the water, rolling onto their backs, diving underwater, then heads back up to see if the wildlife presenter was ready to dispense with some of the smelt treats she had for them.

Is it time for lunch yet?

Is it time for lunch?

Roaming through the 135-acre property, we came across several High Desert habitats: desert (of course), cultivated farm, stream, pond, forest—each habitat diverse and beautiful in its own way.

pond habitat

pond habitat

Also loved the exhibit on prehistoric buzzsaw sharks (What???) Never heard of these guys before. Artistic renderings of these ancient fish, based on fossils of their buzzsaw-shaped jaws found in Idaho, Australia, and China, are incredible. The exhibit on the WPA art projects—architecture, paintings, sculpture, literature, and theater—was fascinating as well, especially to consider how deeply the people of Oregon were affected not only by the training and employment of artisans during the Depression, but also by the enjoyment derived from their works.

Dual sculptures, Blanket Stories, by artist Marie Watt emphasizes the importance of storytelling in past and current American cultures. First she stacked blankets donated by Oregon residents in a column almost reaching the ceiling, each with its own story written on a tag attached to the blanket. Fascinating to read about the people who created them or the mysterious circumstances by which they came to be in the possession of the donors. Then she carved a rendering of her blanket column in pine, reminiscent of a Native American talking stick used in council meetings.

Overall, a very rewarding experience. Do it!

Blanket Stories

Blanket Stories

 

a blanket story

a blanket story

Metolius River

My son and daughter-in-law told us about this beautiful river fifteen miles northwest of Sisters, Oregon, which is 22 miles northwest of Bend. It was fun driving out into the middle of nowhere—not your typical tourist destination, for sure, which is what we like.

First we hiked to Sugar Springs, water bubbling out of a basalt bank into the river about five miles downstream of the headwaters. The water in that area is swift, deep, and an incredible shade of teal blue. Rainbow trout are large and plentiful, grown fat and confident in the comfort of their catch-and-release world.

Then we went in search of the headwaters. The headwaters, also known as Metolius Springs, is actually two sets of springs that surface at the base of Black Butte. They erupt with such force that they quickly broaden to form a wide, swiftly flowing river—one of the largest spring-fed rivers in the United States—that eventually flows into the mighty Deschutes River. Beautiful country, this.

Sugar Springs on the Metolius River

Sugar Springs on the Metolius River

 

the headwaters of the Metolius

the headwaters of the Metolius

 

a rock stuck in tree roots

a rock stuck in tree roots

 

on the banks of the river

on the banks of the river

 

Camp Sherman store near the headwaters

Camp Sherman store near the headwaters

 

cool sculpture just east of Sisters

cool metal sculpture just east of Sisters

Newberry National Volcanic Monument

You can’t visit the Cascade Mountains without paying homage to the volcanoes, active and inactive, that make up the mountain chain from British Columbia south to northern California. Newberry Volcano is only one of many, but the national park is so well done that it’s worth your while to stop in here to learn a bit about the entire mountain range. Not only does the Lava Lands Visitor Center have an incredible display describing the Cascadia Subduction Zone that causes all this volcanic activity, but the grounds, which cover 50,000 acres, encompass the volcano, two volcanic alpine lakes, cinder cones, both obsidian and basaltic lava flows, and the longest lava tube (one mile) in Oregon, and miles of hiking trails to explore. Love this park! Just wish we hadn’t arrived so late in the day. It’s worth a full day of hiking and exploration.

Lava Butte cinder cone in the distance

Lava Butte cinder cone in the distance

 

basaltic lava flow with the Three Sisters mountains on the horizon

basaltic lava flow with the Three Sisters mountains on the horizon

 

Love the sagebrush mixed in with the lava!

Love the sagebrush mixed in with the lava!

 

lava cairns

lava cairns

 

ground squirrels have a field day in the lava flows - lots of nooks and crannies to hide in

ground squirrels have a field day in the lava flows – lots of nooks and crannies to hide in

 

Bend

You’ve got to love a town named Bend. There’s just something about the name that sounds so, well, flexible. Everyone we’ve talked to who has been here says they love it. We had high expectations, and were not disappointed. Here’s a slideshow that attempts to show why.

Bungee!

Just before we arrived in Bend, we stopped at Peter Skene Ogden State Park to take in the views of the Crooked River gorge. I suppose anywhere you have a scenic canyon with a bridge over it in Oregon, you’re going to find bungee jumpers. I had never witnessed bungee jumping before. It made my knees weak just watching.

The "old bridge" over the Crooked River

The railroad bridge over the Crooked River

 

The "new bridge." Check out the bungee jumping platform.

Check out the bungee jumping platform on the old bridge (green bridge in foreground).

 

Watch the jumper, if you dare!

https://youtu.be/-Al56zlw8Cs

 

Into the desert

We left the gorgeously green Columbia River Gorge to head south into the desert. Yes, Oregon has a desert. The Cascade Mountains serve as a barrier to all that wet on the Pacific side (west) of the mountains and creates a “rain shadow” over eastern Oregon. In all our travels to Oregon, we have never ventured into the desert, so here we are.

into the desert

into the desert

 

Mt. Hood from the east side

Mt. Hood from the east side

 

Mt. Adams in Washington

Mt. Adams in Washington

 

Rafters on the Deschutes River

Rafters on the Deschutes River

 

This is Oregon???

This is Oregon???

Hike

For our first hike this trip, we climbed up to Tom McCall Point in Mayer State Park. (Tom McCall, governor of Oregon from 1967 to 1975, was a champion of Oregon’s environment.) Mayer State Park is located on the river midway between Hood River and The Dalles and allows for fabulous views of the gorge and Mts. Hood (in Oregon) and Adams (in Washington) from the upper elevations. We hiked up to the Point from Rowena Crest, on the Historic Columbia River Highway, gaining almost 1000 feet in altitude. Great exercise. Great views. Perfect weather.

Hood River

Much more interesting than The Dalles is Hood River, a town 22 miles west and also on the Columbia River at the mouth of the Hood River–surprise, surprise! Among its claims to fame are the invention of wind surfing (it gets quite breezy here on the Columbia) and several very noteworthy craft breweries. It’s also a cute town to walk around. Great coffee shops, independent boutiques, and restaurants.

Downtown Hood River

Downtown Hood River

 

 

Riverfront Park

Riverfront Park

 

07-buttercups

 

pFriem Family Brewing

pFriem Family Brewing

 

Full Sail Brewing

Full Sail Brewing

 

Double Mountain Brewing

Double Mountain Brewing

 

Big Horse Brewing

Big Horse Brewing

The Dalles

Here we are in The Dalles (rhymes with “gals”), which is French for “flagstones,” also used as a term for waterfalls or rapids by the French-Canadian fur trappers who traveled the area in the 19th century. In 1957, a dam submerged the local Celilo Falls, a source of Native American commerce for 10,000 years.

The bridge crossing the Columbia here looks like it’s made of matchsticks!

The Dalles Dam

The Dalles Dam. That’s the barren Washington side behind the dam.

 

The Dalles Bridge

The Dalles Bridge

 

Surprise! Look who we found peeking over the horizon southwest of The Dalles--it's Mt. Hood.

Surprise! Look who we found peeking over the horizon southwest of The Dalles–it’s Mt. Hood!

The Columbia River Gorge

We began our five-week tour of Oregon with a trip into the Columbia River Gorge from Portland. The Columbia River is the state line between Oregon and Washington and was the destination of Lewis and Clark back in 1805 when they were searching for a water passage from the United States (east of the Appalachian Mountains at that time) to the Pacific Coast. They knew of the Columbia River–the mouth had been discovered by Europeans in the 18th century. They were searching for a way to get to the Columbia from the Mississippi River.

This is my first time exploring the Gorge since reading about Lewis and Clark’s expedition in Stephen Ambrose’s Undaunted Courage, and I am excited. The river is a lot calmer now than when the expedition navigated it. Gone are the multiple rapids and waterfalls they had to contend with. The many dams built during Franklin Roosevelt’s administration make the river appear more like a lake.

The topography is exceptional. The melting glaciers in Idaho and Montana (Missoula Floods) during the last ice age have carved out an incredible gorge in the layers of basalt left by erupting volcanoes prior to the glacial period. Interesting that the Oregon side is so much greener than the Washington side. Turns out the southwest orientation of the layers of rock cause the Washington side to erode into the river. They lose valuable layers of topsoil, while the Oregon side stays pretty much intact. Beautiful country!

Gateway to the Columbia Gorge--Troutdale, just east of Portland.

Gateway to the Columbia Gorge–Troutdale, just east of Portland.

 

The Gorge, looking east from Chanticleer Point.

The Gorge, looking east from Chanticleer Point.

 

The Bonneville Dam, the first of FDR's New Deal dams on the Columbia.

The Bonneville Dam, the first of FDR’s New Deal dams on the Columbia.

 

Lunch at Thunder Island Brewing in Cascade Locks. All that history and gorge-ous scenery works up a thirst!

Lunch at Thunder Island Brewing in Cascade Locks. All that history and gorge-ous scenery works up a thirst!