Quintessential life in Spain

El Vaso de Oro (Cup of Gold)

Cervecería El Vaso de Oro (Cup of Gold)

Tapas and drinks are the typical stuff of daily life in Spain, and we’ve not come across a better example of Spaniards enjoying their two favorite pastimes than El Vaso de Oro (Cup of Gold) cervecería (beer establishment, not that they don’t serve every imaginable type of refreshment as well).

We had spent the day hiking up Montjüic, bypassing the funicular to hike back down, and walking across the waterfront to the other side of the harbor to find this place. All I wanted was a place to sit and rest my tootsies and a cup of something gold and cold. There wasn’t a seat to be found in the place, which was predominantly a long, narrow bar with stools, but everyone seemed to be enjoying themselves so much we couldn’t leave. We ordered beers and tapas and hunched against a shelf hanging on the wall. Ten minutes later two people left, and we grabbed their stools.

and this is a Monday afternoon!

…and this is a Monday afternoon!

The food was delicious; we had these little pork filets on toast drenched in olive oil and some chorizitos (little chorizo sausages) with a basket of bread to soak up the drippings. The beer really quenched. We also enjoyed watching the crew behind the counter interact. There is so little room to navigate back there that they each had their stations, calling out orders to each other and passing food and drinks back and forth – always with a sarcastic comment or shout. Fun!

Wandering in León

León's cathedral

León’s cathedral

Sometimes you make an itinerary only to ignore it. Yes, you want to have some idea of what to see in a city, but you don’t always feel inclined to follow it to the letter. León is one of those cities that just begs you to wander through it, and this is what we discovered:

Of course the huge cathedral (how can you miss it?), but next to it is a little sign inviting you to please descend the stairs to see the Roman ruins. As recently as 1986, they discovered some Roman artifacts that launched a massive archaeological project.

 

 

Roman ruins under the street

Roman ruins under the street

While wandering some back alleyways, Marcus noticed the quick-release on a guy’s bike appeared loose. His attempt to help resulted in a dialogue that started with travel and concluded the next day in a small cafe with world politics. It was very insightful to hear a Spaniard’s take on Spain, the European Union, and the world at large. Gracias, Julio.

Cindy & Antoni Gaudí discussing architecture, no doubt

Cindy & Antoni Gaudí discussing architecture, no doubt

The Casa de Botines, a building designed in his early career by Antoni Gaudí, the Catalan architect we will see much of in Barcelona. I had no idea it was just down the street from our apartment.

A cool shop called Tiger that sells everything from craft supplies to kitchen gadgets. I could have spent all night in there.

 

 

 

 

The symbol of the Camino de Santiago, to keep pilgrims on the right path

The symbol of the Camino de Santiago, to keep pilgrims on the right path

The Camino de Santiago. For those of you who have not seen the movie The Way, find it and watch it and you will understand why we sought out this extraordinary pilgrimage route that extends over 450 miles from across the Pyrenees mountains in France to the cathedral of St. James (Santiago) in Santiago de Compostela. (Thank you, Dorothy Liss!) The 2010 movie stars Martin Sheen and his son, Emilio Estevez; Emilio wrote, directed, and had a small role in it. León is our first contact with El Camino as we head to Santiago. We were intending to seek it out at some point, and it turns out we had been walking on it all night! It runs right through the heart of León, and right past our apartment. The path is marked by bronze scallop shells (the symbol of St. James) imbedded in the cobblestones.

Four Lions Brewery

Four Lions Brewery

On our way home, I saw a sign for Four Lions Brewery, one of the few craft breweries in Spain. It makes an honest-to-goodness IPA. I wanted to cry – a beer, made right here in Spain, that tastes of hops! I offered one of our stools to the woman next to me. Too tired to speak Spanish, I spoke in English. She answered back in perfect English, but with a slight Spanish accent. I was surprised but didn’t say anything. Later she stopped to talk. She’s an English professor at the local university and has lived in New York and New Jersey. So warm and welcoming, she offered to help us if we needed anything.

 

Not bad for a night’s exploring. What a great city! I felt a connection when we first arrived. I sensed it was the type of place that would open up its arms and welcome us in, and it did.

Feria in Salamanca!

concert in the Plaza Mayor

concert in the Plaza Mayor

Getting to Salamanca was easy because we are staying across the river from the Old City. This is a university town and I like to sleep at night, so we opted for a hotel away from all the fracas. And what a good decision it was!

To begin with, it was so nice to have a lot where you can park for free. And the accommodations were so clean and spacious – plush linens, a king-size bed, two sinks in the bathroom, and a fantastic view of the old city! Thank you, hotels.com! Salamanca skyline from our hotelWe were a little concerned about the prospect of breakfast, however, since we couldn’t fix our own and breakfast is often ignored in Spain. We opted out of buying breakfast at the hotel (coffee, tea, and a few rolls for about $20 each). We called room service and asked how much for just coffee and tea: $6 for the both of us. And it came with churros. (More on churros later when I have a chance to try the national drink: hot chocolate, which always comes with churros for dipping.)

It turns out that there is a feria, or festival, going on in Salamanca now. All throughout the Old City food booths sponsored by local restaurants are offering their signature tapas and beverages at a nominal cost. Normally we avoid crowds, but we were hungry, so we headed across the ancient Roman Bridge to get to the old city.

The food booths were everywhere, but most were closed as it was still siesta (yes, they still close most businesses from about 1:30 until 4:00). We explored the city a bit, found the center – the Plaza Mayor – and sat and had a snack while we watch the sound check for a concert setting up on a stage at one end of the plaza. After watching many of Ben’s sound checks, we were amused at this one. It took them forever to check the mics for each instrument, and when they were done with the individual checks and put them all together, there were several instruments you couldn’t hear.

the feria food booths

the feria food booths

We got bored with that and took off through the city again. This time most of the food booths were open and we enjoyed several. When we could hear the music start up again in Plaza Mayor, we went back. The music was great, after tweaking the monitors a bit! It was traditional Spanish music (everyone knew all the words) with a bit of Gypsy or flamenco influence – very strong on the fiddle and accordion, as well as acoustic Spanish guitar. People were clapping in the syncopated rhythm that is so characteristically Spanish, and many were dancing. We had a great time, and didn’t get back to the hotel until around 11:00 – the latest we’ve been out so far. Maybe we will adjust to the Spanish clock after all! Regardless, it was wonderful to go back over the river to a hotel where we had the quietest night’s sleep since we’ve been in Spain. zzz….

La vida dulce

tortilla española with local beer in Ávila

tortilla española with local beer in Ávila

Whenever you sit in a cafe, bar, or restaurant and order a beverage, they always bring you a little snack. It’s included in the cost of the beverage, which is usually very reasonable even without the food. In Sepúlveda they brought us a substantial snack with the first drink order, and another one with a refill. That’s lunch for me!

We’ve been served everything from a bowl of potato chips (that could have fed six people) to Spanish olives (yum!) to garlic mushrooms (Sepúlveda) and grilled peppers and ham sandwiches. Here’s two full servings of tortilla española (like a potato frittata) that came with our beers. Delish!

We were just wandering…

Cafe de los Asturias
 
Now that we are a little more familiar with Madrid – or at least el historico centro, our neck of the woods – we feel more comfortable just wandering without worrying about getting lost. The alleyways (cavas) are so inviting. They twist and turn and just beg you to explore what’s around the bend. And most are lined with the cutest little cafes.

So yesterday we headed out in the general direction of the Palacio Real (Royal Palace) and came across the Plaza de Ramales with several enticing cafes. As it was 3:30 and we hadn’t had lunch yet (we really are on Madrid time – or perhaps still jet-lagged!), we stopped at Cafe de los Asturias (Asturias is a Spanish province on the northern Atlantic coast). Marcus was intrigued by a photo on their visual menu of boquerones, or little fried anchovies (he’s into stinky little fish), and I was drawn to their selection of salads.

Great place, great food!

boquerones

ensalada mixta

Day 1 in Madrid

gemutlikeit

 

The first day of our 87-day trip to Spain was fun, but a little overwhelming at first. Both Marcus and I had the same thought when we first stepped out of our rented apartment into the street by ourselves for the first time: What have we done??? Our host (Airbnb-speak for owner or manager of the property; once he gives us the orientation spiel and the key, we’re on our own.) Carlos picked us up at the airport and took us to the apartment. Don’t know how we would have done it on our own. Barajas, Madrid’s airport, is about an hour from el Centro Histórico, where we are staying. One of our three suitcases had a broken wheel on arrival, and Carlos (who very graciously offered to help with our bags) dragged 48 pounds on dead wheels across cobblestoned streets to get it into the apartment.

After Carlos bid us buena suerte (good luck) we changed clothes and set out in search of food, a Spanish SIM card for my phone, a new suitcase, and a few groceries. We headed straight for el Mercado de San Miguel, an upscale food emporium of tapas and bebidas (drinks). Spaniards really know how to eat well, and Madrid is a center of haute cuisine (don’t know how to say that en español yet!).

Then we hit la Puerta de Sol, one of the biggest and busiest squares in Madrid. Once a medieval gate (puerta) of the Old City (back in the day when they walled in cities to protect the citizens), it is aptly named. The sun (sol) beats down on this square without mercy; it is almost impossible to walk across it during the day. Now it is a center for all things turisticos and telecom. In the Orange store, where we bought a SIM card for my cell phone (so we can communicate with other Airbnb hosts down the road), we heard more English spoken by los turistas than we do in Miami from los locales!

While most Spaniards in Madrid speak English, the saleswoman in the suitcase store did not. I was tempted to flee and find someone somewhere else who did, but I decided to stick it out. She was oh-so-patient, had no other customers, and spoke slowly and clearly. I had to start sometime; I took the plunge. I was able to ask her all of Marcus’s many questions (those of you who know him will appreciate how difficult that is even in English!) and even understood her answers! I walked out of the store with a new suitcase and a huge smile. Four years of high-school Spanish and two years of Rosetta Stone had just paid off!

On our way home we stopped at an outdoor cafe for a beer and met three young men from Germany. One had just arrived to study finance at a university in Madrid. His two friends came along for the ride, literally. (They have been friends since boyhood and had a fantastic joy ride across France from Köln.) We told them about our two years living in Munich, and then they had to buy us a beer. We ended up staying out very late talking and laughing with them. Every time we told them we had to leave, they’d buy us beers to get us to stay! It was a perfect way to stay up late to help us recover from jet lag and acclimate to the Spanish way of life. Everyone stays up until the wee hours of the morning here, most of them in the bars below our apartment! We didn’t get to bed until 1:00am, after having slept very little the night before on the plane, and woke up at 9:30, so we got a good, solid 8.5 hours sleep and woke up rested. And now, on to Day 2!

 

 

Best new favorite pub

DSCN0678Inn Deep, right on the river Kelvin in the west end of Glasgow. Not only is this pub built under a bridge (tucked inside two of the arches), but it has the best Scottish IPA (Williams Bros. Joker IPA) I’ve found to date, a wee outdoor beer garden overlooking the river, and great dugs (that’s Glaswegian for dogs) – oh, and the dugs’ owners are very nice too!