Tag Archives: County Antrim

The road most traveled

Posted on by

2

the gap-toothed Dark Hedges

I saw a photo of the Dark Hedges years ago in one of those emails that circulates with some of the most amazing photos you’ve ever seen of über-remote places on our planet. I mentally swore I would go there one day. Today I did.

The Dark Hedges is rated as one of top five tree tunnels in the world. Tree tunnels—I didn’t even know it was a thing. And who rates them anyway?

The tunnel would have been magnificent, except for all the tourists—GoT tourists, for the most part, some dressed in costume. Yes, the Dark Hedges was used in the wildly popular Game of Thrones as the King’s Road which Arya Stark traveled to escape King’s Landing in Season 2. And I got to visit the King’s Road today with Jon Snow and Daenerys Targaryen. 

The road—one of those ordinarily gorgeous, backcountry Irish roads—was closed to vehicular traffic a couple of years ago because of the tourists. The Woodland Trust is concerned that high vehicular traffic could damage the already fragile shallow-root system of the beech trees. Five trees have been lost to storms in the past few years. 

Today there were two full-size tour buses, both with the Game of Thrones logo emblazoned on the back window, and a dozen or more cars parked just off the closed road—on another ordinarily gorgeous, backcountry Irish road. The locals in this peaceful wee community must be beside themselves.

We were there, so we took photos—full of tourists—and moved on. I feel bad for having contributed to the hullabaloo. Poor timing on my part. I wish I had traveled this road before Arya did.

Making way while the sun shines

Posted on by

2

Ballintoy village from Carrick-a-Rede cliffs

We never had any intention of walking across the rope bridge at Carrick-a-Rede, so we almost skipped the sight altogether. Heights are not our thing, especially on a 66-foot length of flexible surface suspended between two large rocks 98 feet above the North Atlantic. But we thought we’d stop by to watch others take the challenge. We had walked out to the Giant’s Causeway that morning, and then had a nice lunch in the town of Bushmills. (No, not a liquid lunch.) The sun was still shining gloriously when we emerged from the restaurant. We needed to be outdoors.

Sheep Island

Carrick-a-Rede (pronounced Carrick-a-Reedy) is from Scottish Gaelic, Carraig-a-Rade, meaning “rock in the road,” the “rock” being a plug blown out of a volcanic vent 60 million years ago and the “road” being the sea route for Atlantic salmon on their westward journey past Carrick Island off the northern coast of Ireland. 

Carrick Island

Over 350 years ago fishermen began to set their nets in the salmon-rich waters around Carrick Island, but they needed a way to check on them without having to launch a boat into the turbulent Atlantic each time. So they strung a rope bridge across the gap between mainland and island to give them access to their nets. (Though I can’t imagine crossing a flimsy bridge during hazardous weather conditions on the North Atlantic any more than I can imagine taking a boat out in it.)

Rathlin Island on left, near background; Scotland on right, far background

Fishermen no longer use the rope bridge, as there is no wild salmon in this part of the Atlantic anymore, so the bridge has become a tourist attraction—of the extreme sort. One source has it that there are some people who cross it once, and refuse to walk back across it. They have to be rescued from the island by boat.

Rule #1: Never partake in an activity where a defibrillator may be required.

The walk out to the bridge (on solid road) was spectacular—some of the best weather we’ve experienced lately and some of the most beautiful landscape. The Antrim Coast is every bit as gorgeous as the western Atlantic coast of Ireland. 

today’s rope bridge is substantially stronger than past bridges

Great day to be outdoors. Great day to watch crazy tourists get their adrenaline rush for the day.

in the far distance, Fair Head, the northeast corner of Ireland