Gold Beach

looking at Gold Beach, across the Rogue River

looking at Gold Beach, across the Rogue River

Gold Beach, the town we are currently staying in for a couple of nights, is on the south bank of the mouth of the mighty Rogue River–a certified Wild and Scenic River. You may remember we hiked above the Rogue in Medford (Lower Table Rock).

the Pacific Coast Highway bridge over the Rogue River

the Pacific Coast Highway bridge over the Rogue River

Unlike Florida, where they spend considerable money to keep the inlets dredged for commercial and pleasure fishing boats, sand builds up across the mouths of several rivers we have seen. It’s not until the Fall rains or the Spring snowmelt flood the river that there is enough volume to overcome the sandbar and go out to sea.

the sandbar that separates river from ocean, for now

the sandbar that separates river from ocean, for now

You have to love a town that provides shelter for its homeless cats and dogs.

03-homeless

The southern Oregon coast

We didn’t want to miss a bit of the Oregon coast, so we dipped down into California on our way here from southern Oregon to begin at the beginning of Oregon’s Pacific Coast Highway. Every visitor to Oregon should catch this pristine, quiet corner of the state.

Four words: Samuel Boardman Scenic Corridor – 12 miles of beautatiousness

 

Ashland

I had to visit Ashland, not only because it is an adorable little town smack-dab in the middle of nowhere, but also because my sister went to college here 50 years ago. I remember going to Ashland with my parents to drop her off. We were about to move to Bangkok, and it was sad to leave her behind. How hard that must have been for her to leave home for the first time with her family so far away. At least she had friends from high school with her in this beautiful town.

Jacksonville, Oregon

Here we are in cute little J’ville. The town is so perfect we felt like we were on a movie set. Lots of cute shops, restaurants, galleries, wine-tasting venues, and even an impressive Halloween-themed show by the local art league. It was fun wandering around pretending like we lived here.

 

Table Rock

We hiked Lower Table Rock today. Lower Table Rock and Upper Table Rock, across the valley, used to be one mesa, but over the millennia, wind and water have eroded the softer basalt between what is now the two mesas. They appear to be the same elevation to me, so I’m not really sure why one is Lower and the other Upper. Could be because of their orientation on the map. All I know is Lower Table Rock is VERY high, by my hiking standards, and considered a more challenging hike than Upper Table Rock. I was beginning to think we’d never reach the top, especially after the steep switchbacks toward the end of the climb. And then, once we reached the mesa top, we had another mile to go to the far side to get views of the Rogue River and Medford down below. Good hike!

The challenge--Lower Table Rock

The challenge–Lower Table Rock

 

into the brush

into the brush

 

Yikes!

Yikes!

 

curly-boughed oaks

curly-boughed oaks

 

peeling madrona trees

peeling madrona trees

 

What kind of tree is this? Anyone?

What kind of tree is this? Love the red bark, but it doesn’t seem to be peeling like the madronas.

 

We made it to the top! Now just another mile to go....

We made it to the top! Now just another mile to go….

 

The reward--views of the Rogue River.

The reward–views of the Rogue River.

Crater Lake

We had a stunningly gorgeous day to explore Crater Lake National Park. Crater Lake is in the caldera of a volcano, Mount Mazama, that erupted 7700 years ago. Once the magma chamber inside the volcano was empty, the mountain top collapsed into the chamber creating the caldera. Rain and snow filled the caldera over the centuries to form the lake; there are no rivers, streams, or springs that flow into it. At 1943 feet deep, it is the deepest lake in the United States and the ninth deepest in the world. The extreme depth accounts for the sapphire-blue water.

Here’s a tip: When you enter the park, whether it’s from the north or southwest entrance, drive along the East Rim Drive first. For some reason, everyone wants to see West Rim Drive first, despite heavy traffic backups. We had the East Rim almost to ourselves.

Here’s a sampling of what we saw.

High Desert Museum

We hesitated to spend the $15 per person admission price for this museum just south of Bend. $15 is not much for a quality museum, but you never know how good a local museum is going in. (I’ve long ago given up trusting online ratings.) But there was this ominous note on my typed travel itinerary: “Do it!” In red font. With the exclamation point. Can’t remember what motivated me to add that, but you can’t argue with that kind of message, so we went. And it was worth every penny.

Here’s what we liked.

Outstanding exhibit on the history of Oregon’s High Desert, including the portion of the Oregon Trail that ran through it. This is where the oxen and mules started to die from exhaustion and lack of food and water. Families who brought more than one wagon had to consolidate their belongings into one. Out went the cast iron stoves, furniture that had been in the family for generations, and other large items they had hauled for thousands of miles. Some families had to dispense with even functional, daily items like pots and pans and clothing. The High Desert was where the Oregon Dream began to fall apart for many.

abandoned dreams

abandoned dreams

Rescued animal presentations. Tumbleweed, the porcupine, was happy to share his lunch hour with us, eschewing the non-seasonal apple to chew on the more autumnal choices of pumpkin and parsnip. Does he know something we don’t know?

Tumbleweed

Tumbleweed

The river otters were absolutely delightful! They began a dizzying game of Follow-the-Leader throughout their newly constructed habitat—under the water, into their den, out the back exit to their island, back into the water, rolling onto their backs, diving underwater, then heads back up to see if the wildlife presenter was ready to dispense with some of the smelt treats she had for them.

Is it time for lunch yet?

Is it time for lunch?

Roaming through the 135-acre property, we came across several High Desert habitats: desert (of course), cultivated farm, stream, pond, forest—each habitat diverse and beautiful in its own way.

pond habitat

pond habitat

Also loved the exhibit on prehistoric buzzsaw sharks (What???) Never heard of these guys before. Artistic renderings of these ancient fish, based on fossils of their buzzsaw-shaped jaws found in Idaho, Australia, and China, are incredible. The exhibit on the WPA art projects—architecture, paintings, sculpture, literature, and theater—was fascinating as well, especially to consider how deeply the people of Oregon were affected not only by the training and employment of artisans during the Depression, but also by the enjoyment derived from their works.

Dual sculptures, Blanket Stories, by artist Marie Watt emphasizes the importance of storytelling in past and current American cultures. First she stacked blankets donated by Oregon residents in a column almost reaching the ceiling, each with its own story written on a tag attached to the blanket. Fascinating to read about the people who created them or the mysterious circumstances by which they came to be in the possession of the donors. Then she carved a rendering of her blanket column in pine, reminiscent of a Native American talking stick used in council meetings.

Overall, a very rewarding experience. Do it!

Blanket Stories

Blanket Stories

 

a blanket story

a blanket story

Metolius River

My son and daughter-in-law told us about this beautiful river fifteen miles northwest of Sisters, Oregon, which is 22 miles northwest of Bend. It was fun driving out into the middle of nowhere—not your typical tourist destination, for sure, which is what we like.

First we hiked to Sugar Springs, water bubbling out of a basalt bank into the river about five miles downstream of the headwaters. The water in that area is swift, deep, and an incredible shade of teal blue. Rainbow trout are large and plentiful, grown fat and confident in the comfort of their catch-and-release world.

Then we went in search of the headwaters. The headwaters, also known as Metolius Springs, is actually two sets of springs that surface at the base of Black Butte. They erupt with such force that they quickly broaden to form a wide, swiftly flowing river—one of the largest spring-fed rivers in the United States—that eventually flows into the mighty Deschutes River. Beautiful country, this.

Sugar Springs on the Metolius River

Sugar Springs on the Metolius River

 

the headwaters of the Metolius

the headwaters of the Metolius

 

a rock stuck in tree roots

a rock stuck in tree roots

 

on the banks of the river

on the banks of the river

 

Camp Sherman store near the headwaters

Camp Sherman store near the headwaters

 

cool sculpture just east of Sisters

cool metal sculpture just east of Sisters