I missed the note about sharing food…

Arcadia Travieso

Arcadio Travieso

So it was too wet and foggy to hike, which is the main reason I wanted to go to Las Médulas. There are some great hikes, I understand, around the collapsed mountains.

Plan B: lunch!

The village of Las Médulas consists of about 30 homes which look, for the most part, like the people are living just above poverty level. But there were several restaurants to choose from (thanks to El Camino and the tourists) – all stone farmhouses, most likely with an abuelita (little grandmother) doing the cooking. We walked through the entire village before deciding on Arcadio Travieso (don’t ask me, I think it’s Latin). Loved the stone interior and the excellent servers. It was undoubtably a family affair.

inside Arcadio Travieso

inside Arcadio Travieso

One thing I missed on the sign when we went in: they serve “food to share”. In other words, everything comes on huge, heaping platters. We ordered salad, an empanada (which are pastries stuffed with meat, vegetables, and potatoes, and in South America and the U.S. are usually the size of a small wallet), and a veal dish with potatoes. The salad was tasty, and the empanada so huge (a 10×10″ square – think stuffed pizza!) that we had to cancel our veal dish. Bummer! If I had known, I would have left off the empanada (which was delicious – chock-full of meat) and taken the veal. Oh, well; live and learn. Good eatings today!

Abuelita's garden - we were eating fresh!

Abuelita’s garden – we were eating fresh and local!

Feria in Salamanca!

concert in the Plaza Mayor

concert in the Plaza Mayor

Getting to Salamanca was easy because we are staying across the river from the Old City. This is a university town and I like to sleep at night, so we opted for a hotel away from all the fracas. And what a good decision it was!

To begin with, it was so nice to have a lot where you can park for free. And the accommodations were so clean and spacious – plush linens, a king-size bed, two sinks in the bathroom, and a fantastic view of the old city! Thank you, hotels.com! Salamanca skyline from our hotelWe were a little concerned about the prospect of breakfast, however, since we couldn’t fix our own and breakfast is often ignored in Spain. We opted out of buying breakfast at the hotel (coffee, tea, and a few rolls for about $20 each). We called room service and asked how much for just coffee and tea: $6 for the both of us. And it came with churros. (More on churros later when I have a chance to try the national drink: hot chocolate, which always comes with churros for dipping.)

It turns out that there is a feria, or festival, going on in Salamanca now. All throughout the Old City food booths sponsored by local restaurants are offering their signature tapas and beverages at a nominal cost. Normally we avoid crowds, but we were hungry, so we headed across the ancient Roman Bridge to get to the old city.

The food booths were everywhere, but most were closed as it was still siesta (yes, they still close most businesses from about 1:30 until 4:00). We explored the city a bit, found the center – the Plaza Mayor – and sat and had a snack while we watch the sound check for a concert setting up on a stage at one end of the plaza. After watching many of Ben’s sound checks, we were amused at this one. It took them forever to check the mics for each instrument, and when they were done with the individual checks and put them all together, there were several instruments you couldn’t hear.

the feria food booths

the feria food booths

We got bored with that and took off through the city again. This time most of the food booths were open and we enjoyed several. When we could hear the music start up again in Plaza Mayor, we went back. The music was great, after tweaking the monitors a bit! It was traditional Spanish music (everyone knew all the words) with a bit of Gypsy or flamenco influence – very strong on the fiddle and accordion, as well as acoustic Spanish guitar. People were clapping in the syncopated rhythm that is so characteristically Spanish, and many were dancing. We had a great time, and didn’t get back to the hotel until around 11:00 – the latest we’ve been out so far. Maybe we will adjust to the Spanish clock after all! Regardless, it was wonderful to go back over the river to a hotel where we had the quietest night’s sleep since we’ve been in Spain. zzz….

La vida dulce

tortilla española with local beer in Ávila

tortilla española with local beer in Ávila

Whenever you sit in a cafe, bar, or restaurant and order a beverage, they always bring you a little snack. It’s included in the cost of the beverage, which is usually very reasonable even without the food. In Sepúlveda they brought us a substantial snack with the first drink order, and another one with a refill. That’s lunch for me!

We’ve been served everything from a bowl of potato chips (that could have fed six people) to Spanish olives (yum!) to garlic mushrooms (Sepúlveda) and grilled peppers and ham sandwiches. Here’s two full servings of tortilla española (like a potato frittata) that came with our beers. Delish!

The best of Madrid

We haven’t seen it all yet, but we’ll be back in November to catch what we missed.

We were just wandering…

Cafe de los Asturias
 
Now that we are a little more familiar with Madrid – or at least el historico centro, our neck of the woods – we feel more comfortable just wandering without worrying about getting lost. The alleyways (cavas) are so inviting. They twist and turn and just beg you to explore what’s around the bend. And most are lined with the cutest little cafes.

So yesterday we headed out in the general direction of the Palacio Real (Royal Palace) and came across the Plaza de Ramales with several enticing cafes. As it was 3:30 and we hadn’t had lunch yet (we really are on Madrid time – or perhaps still jet-lagged!), we stopped at Cafe de los Asturias (Asturias is a Spanish province on the northern Atlantic coast). Marcus was intrigued by a photo on their visual menu of boquerones, or little fried anchovies (he’s into stinky little fish), and I was drawn to their selection of salads.

Great place, great food!

boquerones

ensalada mixta

Haggis!

Now we can say we’ve been fully indoctrinated. After years of hearing haggis jokes, we felt we couldn’t spend five weeks in Scotland and not try it. Friends at home, upon hearing that we were planning a trip to Scotland, immediately asked, “Are you going to try haggis? Ha, ha, ha!” Well, now we can say we have.

DSCN0773What is so funny about haggis? Is it because it’s cooked inside a sheep’s stomach? Today it’ s more commonly cooked in sausage casing, and they remove the casing before serving it. In fact it was very decoratively displayed in a little tower alongside a similar tower of neeps (turnips, mashed) and a tower of tatties (potatoes, mashed). The dish looked like a cute little Scottish castle. The pub we were in also served a delicious whisky sauce on the side. The only thing they didn’t include to make it worthy of a traditional Robert Burns dinner was a wee dram of whisky. It tasted like a savory meatloaf with a texture more like corned beef hash. It was quite good.

And then we got back to our B&B and I looked up “haggis” in Wikipedia. I had forgotten the “meat” that’s cooked inside the casing is the sheep’s organs: heart, liver, and lungs. I don’t eat organ meats. *urp*

Now I know why Robbie Burns included whisky with his haggis. Marcus, pass the whisky. I’ll let you know how we feel in the morning.