the Costa Brava

the Costa Brava

the Costa Brava

We are on the Mediterranean coast now, and each section of it has its own name. The northernmost Spanish coast, between the French border and Barcelona, is called the Costa Brava (Strong or Wild Coast). Just the name draws me. We thought we’d check it out.

Cadaqués, home of Salvador Dalí

Cadaqués, home of Salvador Dalí

Our first stop was Cadaqués, home of Salvador Dalí. We stopped at a little place called the Bar Marítim, which was listed in Fodors, and checked out the menu placed out front for passersby to review. Looked good, so we selected a table right on the beach. We ordered beverages and asked for the tapas menu. No menu; chips or olives. He must have misunderstood me; we saw the menu. Marcus went inside, retrieved one, and brought it back. We made our final selections, waved the server down, and ordered. No, only chips and olives. ¿Por qué? Because the kitchen is closed. ¿Por qué? Because the kitchen is closed. He walked away. At lunchtime? On a Tuesday? We finished our drinks and decided to head inland from the beach to find an open kitchen.

olive groves

olive groves

olives turning from green to black

olives turning from green to black

We found a cute little place with tables in a cover courtyard called Don Quijote. What’s not to like? At least the owner has a love of literature. We were the only people in the place. It was a bit early by Spanish standards, 12:30. The Spanish lunch “hour” is from 1:30-4:00. [They used to call it siesta, but I was corrected when I called it that. I think Spaniards are trying to up their image and not appear too sedentary or noncompetitive.] We had a delicious lunch of fried eggs, French fries, and pork filet (me) and chorizo (Marcus). Some of the most flavorful food we’ve had in Spain! [They always warn us when food is picante, or spicy, and it always so mild we can barely taste the spice.]

The owner of the restaurant was sitting at a table reading his newspaper. After we finished, Marcus went up to him and thanked him for the great meal and service. He leaped up from his table, shook Marcus’s hand, slapped him on the back, thanked him, turned to me, thanked me, shook my hand. OMG! I think we made his day!

Cap de Creus

Cap de Creus

We drove on to the northeastern-most point of Spain, Cap de Creus, only a few kilometers from the French border. If I had known how gorgeous this place is, we would have spent the whole day here hiking! (Okay, maybe not. Our feet were killing us from the four straight days of personal-best walks in Spain: 18,000+ steps.) So many amazing trails with so many gorgeous views!

us

Looking back at Barcelona

 

While I did not love Barcelona as much as I thought I would, I have to say it was because of the throngs of tourists more than anything else. It really is a beautiful city, and I wish we could have had it to ourselves for a day – okay, maybe the whole week. But looking back, there were many things I did love. Here’s a sample.

Best monument in Barcelona

Plaza de Toros, Barcelona

Plaza de Toros, Barcelona

bullThis Plaza de Toros, or bullfighting ring, in Barcelona is no longer a sports arena as bullfighting was outlawed in Catalonya in 2010 – the first (and only?) communidad (or state) in Spain to do so. Hurray! The arena has been turned into a monument toward a cruel and archaic tradition that preyed upon scared, helpless animals. Good riddance!

This guy seems to be happy. I think he’s dancing a jig!

Park Güell

the terrace overlooking Barcelona

the terrace overlooking Barcelona

Of all the things on my list to see in Barcelona, Park Güell was the most anticipated – even more so than La Sagrada Familia. And it was also the most disappointing.

Marcus and I were taking a day off on a Sunday. After hanging out at the apartment paying bills, writing blogs, and being generally lazy, we needed some activity. Let’s go for a walk in the park!

wild parrots build nests in the palm trees

wild parrots build nests in the palm trees

Park Güell was originally a business venture commissioned of Gaudí by his patron, Count Eusebi Güell. It was designed as a commercial center in the suburbs of Barcelona where the well-to-do could live, socialize, and shop. Unfortunately the enterprise failed, but Gaudí so loved the area he designed that he spent the last twenty years of his life living there. I had seen photos of the serpentine mosaic benches on the terrace overlooking Barcelona, and I couldn’t wait to sit there and take in the view.

We approached the park from a side entrance, so we didn’t see the busloads of tourist entering at the main entrance. As we approached the terrace, we saw a long Disney-esque line snaking back from a ticket booth. Ticket booth? What is there to buy in a public park? Well, it turns out that they control the number of people who are on the terrace at any given time by selling tickets ($9 per person) for appointed time slots. So you stand in line to buy your tickets, and then you stand in line to wait for your time slot. I was incensed and refused to buy a ticket on principle.

Gaudí designed the columns that support the terraces to look like tree roots

Gaudí designed the columns that support the terraces to look like tree roots

There were plenty of other terraces to enjoy on our own time and at no expense. The park had many levels as it wound its way uphill, and we started to hike in search of views of Barcelona. As we achieved each level and admired the view, there was always a higher level with a better view. So up we’d go again. I hadn’t dressed appropriately for the 85° weather. Wunderground told me it was only going to be in the low 70s. The entrance to our apartment building is in an urban canyon that sees no daylight, so it was quite cool when we left the apartment. I wore jeans, a sweatshirt, and boots. Everyone else was in capris or shorts and sandals. How is it that everyone always seems more in tune with the weather than I am? I don’t think I got the weather right a single day in Barcelona. Isn’t this October? Isn’t it supposed to be fall now?

the entrance to Park Güell

the entrance to Park Güell

Long story short, I couldn’t get the Disney effect out of my head. By the time we walked down to the main entrance to the park, I didn’t have the patience to fight my way through the mob to look at Gaudí’s mosaic creatures and ceramic buildings. The photo-snapping swarm and the heat had done their worst, and I couldn’t wait to go. We walked home on souvenir-lined streets that seemed to go on for miles. I mean, really, how many mosaic lizards and frogs can tourists consume? It wasn’t until we reached the square near our apartment that I could finally breathe freely – and put that sweatshirt back on.

Holy Cathedral!

La Sagrada Familia

La Sagrada Familia

So many people I know have been to Barcelona. If they’ve been to Europe, and especially if they’ve been on a Mediterranean cruise, they’ve been to Barcelona. And all of these people, when they heard about our trip to Spain, asked if we were going to see Antoni Gaudí’s famous cathedral, La Sagrada Familia (The Holy Family), while we are here. ¡Claro que sí!

columns grow to the ceiling like trees

columns grow to the ceiling like trees

I had high expectations when I entered the cathedral, and I must confess they were exceeded. Oh! My! Goodness! Gaudí was so outside the box on this one. This is like no cathedral ever built. Where did he come up with his designs? Nature, they say. Beginning as a young boy, he studied the shape of natural things: the angle of the roots at the base of a tree trunk, the angle at which the branches extend from the trunk, the arc of palm fronds hanging from branches. There are no straight lines or right angles in nature, he determined, so there aren’t any in his cathedral. Why not make the columns that support the massive roof grow like trees from the floor right to the lofty ceiling? The spreading branches eliminate the need for buttresses, and you feel like you’re in a forest. For him, religion and nature were one. He also loved mathematics, especially the geometry of paraboloids and hyperboloids. I have to agree with him: There is nothing more aesthetically pleasing than a curve.

light streaming through hidden colored windows

light streaming through hidden colored windows

Gaudí loved color as well. The gradations of the rainbow, from reds to blues and violets, as you progress around the side aisles of the cathedral are phenomenal. There is the beautiful, visible stained glass, but he also included colored windows you can’t see that allow light suffused with color to strike the white, interior side walls.

IMG_5439And the crucifix suspended at the heart of the cathedral under an umbrella of light is visible from every angle. It is like nothing I have ever seen before, and truly awe-inspiring!

Gaudí used visual allegory throughout his design, but especially on the exterior. Each of the three façades; the Nativity, the Passion, and the Glory; is covered in flora, fauna, and Biblical characters rich in significance. The two columns on the Nativity façade are supported by a tortoise and a sea turtle representing the land and the sea. Only the Nativity façade was complete when Gaudí died at the age of 73 in 1926. He was hit by a tram as he was crossing the street to go to work at the cathedral, but after a short hiatus the work continued under his assistant’s guidance. The Passion façade was completed in 1976, and now they’re working on the Glory.

the Nativity façade

the Nativity façade

Sant Jordí (St. George)

Sant Jordí (St. George)

They are hoping to have the cathedral finished in 2026, the centennial of Gaudí’s death, but I’m hearing whispers of 2040. What they’ve accomplished so far is literally fantastic, and if the Glory façade has as much detail as the other two, then they’ve got a ways to go yet.

From any hill in Barcelona you can see Gaudí’s cathedral sailing on the sea of buildings and watch the cranes hard at work. It’s so exciting to think that one day this masterpiece will be complete and we were there to watch it unfold.

the choir surrounds the interior

the choir lines the interior so that music surrounds

Santa María del Mar

Santa María del Mar, Barcelona

Santa María del Mar, Barcelona

This church, built in the 14th century in the Catalan Gothic style, is simple in style but strikingly beautiful. There must be something to the theory that geometric proportion is aesthetically pleasingly because this church was designed around units of eight, the numerical symbol for the Virgin Mary, and it is heart-achingly symmetrical.

the nave

the nave

The first impression is that the church is incredibly light and lofty inside for a church built in the Middle Ages. Some claim that the columns supporting the roof are the most slender of any Gothic church ever built. Where you notice this most is in the apse. I don’t know if the eight columns behind the altar are physically taller or more slender than the columns in the nave, or if it’s the light coming in from the windows there, or just an optical illusion, but certainly the eye is drawn upward toward heaven, as was intended by the architects.

 

I don’t ever remember being in a church with an open ambulatory – no walls, no screen, no closed doors behind the altar; the openess invites you to walk behind the altar and explore it from every angle. Now that’s my kind of church!

the rose window above the entrance

the rose window above the entrance

painting in the keystone of one of the arches

painting in the keystone of one of the arches

Plaza de Toros

Plaza de Toros, Zaragoza

Plaza de Toros, Zaragoza

plaza de torosI’ve read a bit about bullfighting by aficionados, animal rights activists, and people who fall somewhere in between in an effort to understand what really goes on in the ring and why some people think it’s an art. I have to say I still don’t get it. I despise everything about it. How anyone could separate an animal from the comfort of its herd and then torture it until death is just beyond me.

But I have to confess that there’s something powerful about the plaza de toros by virtue of its perfectly round design alone. You can tell by the beautiful condition of this ring that the Zaragozanos love their “sport.”

La Aljafería

La Aljafería - Moorish palace and fortress

La Aljafería – Moorish palace and fortress

I just love the Moorish architecture in Spain. Built as a palace and fortress by the Moors in the 11th century, La Aljafería was remodeled by Fernando and Isabel after they kicked the Moors out in the Reconquest.

ancient portal

ancient portal

 

keyhole doorway

keyhole doorway

 

beautiful arches

beautiful arches

 

ceiling added by Fernando & Isabel in 1492 - they were busy that year renovating palaces and kicking out the Moors & Jews

ceiling added by Fernando & Isabel in 1492 – they were busy that year renovating palaces, funding expeditions to the Indies, and kicking the Moors & Jews out of Spain

 

St. George slaying a dragon

St. George slaying a dragon

 

delicate detail work

delicate detail work

 

interesting graffiti - wonder when it was done

interesting “graffiti”

Zaragoza

remains of the Roman wall with the Mercado Central in the background

remains of the Roman wall with the Mercado Central in the background

Zaragoza, capital of the Spanish province of Aragón, was established as a river port by the Romans in 25 BCE. It was named for Caesar Augustus. If you slur his name a bit and truncate the syllables, you can almost get from “Caesar Augustus” to “Zaragoza,” especially if you lisp the z’s like you’re supposed to in Castilian Spanish. While you’re practicing that, take a look at some of the photos Marcus took of the city. 

the Basilica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar - I just call her Pilar after my favorite character in For Whom the Bell Tolls.

the Basilica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar – I just call her Pilar after my favorite character in For Whom the Bell Tolls.

 

closeup Pilar's beautifully tiled domes

closeup of Pilar’s beautifully tiled domes

 

lovely fountain in the Plaza del Pilar

lovely fountain in the Plaza del Pilar

 

recently excavated Roman amphitheater

recently excavated Roman amphitheater

 

Puerta del Carmen - site of a key battle in the Napoleonic War in which the Aragonese kicked butt!

Puerta del Carmen – site of a key battle in the Napoleonic War in which the Aragonese kicked butt!

 

El Tubo (The Pipe) - the site of some of the best tapas in Zaragoza

El Tubo (The Pipe) – the site of some of the best tapas in Zaragoza

 

migas - a mix of breadcrumbs sautéed in olive oil with bits & pieces of delicious things & topped with anything from the kitchen you choose

migas – a mix of breadcrumbs sautéed in olive oil with bits & pieces of delicious things added & topped with anything from the kitchen you choose. Our choice was a fried egg. Pure comfort food!