The Osborne bulls

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We have fallen head-over-heels in love with these bulls encountered on the hillsides of Spain. Originally an advertisement for Osborne brandy, these bulls are fourteen meters (forty-six feet) high and are strategically placed along the highways for maximum drama.

According to Wikipedia, the EU passed a law in 1994 outlawing the advertisement of alcohol on the highways, so all the bulls were to be removed. But they had become such an icon of Spain that there was a public outcry. They were allowed to remain if Osborne agreed to paint over any reference to their product, which they did. There are now ninety-one of these solid black bulls throughout the country. It’s thrilling to come around a bend in the highway and find one of these guys hovering above you, especially because they are so few and far between.

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I’ve said it before: I am totally against bullfighting or torturing animals in any respect, which is all the more reason I love to see these “survivors.” They may represent the archaic sport of bullfighting to some, but to me they represent the majesty of a magnificent animal. And that’s no bull!

Picking olives

picking olives

On our relocation drive from Valencia to Alicante we stopped in Dénia to visit the castle and “caught” this young man picking olives on our hike up the hill. I just assumed it was perfectly legal to harvest olives from town property (I mean, who else is going to collect them?), but maybe not. As soon as he saw us, he stopped and stared intently out to sea while we passed. Yeah, I’m sure he was there just for the view! And those are dog treats in the bag, right?

Wandering in Valencia

Mercado Central from the outside

Mercado Central from the outside

Valencia, the third largest city in Spain after Madrid and Barcelona, does not have many sights per se, which makes it a great city to wander in. No agenda, just mosey down any street that strikes you as interesting. And when you feel you are hopelessly lost, pull out Google Maps. Here’s a bit of what we discovered.

Mercado Central on the inside

Mercado Central on the inside

evidence of the Moorish influence on architecture

evidence of the Moorish influence on architecture

typical Spanish street life

typical Spanish street life

our favorite hangout - real craft brews, very rare in Spain

our favorite hangout – real craft brews, very rare in Spain

beautiful palm-lined streets

beautiful palm-lined streets

the glass-domed ceiling in the post office

the glass-domed ceiling in the post office

Plaza de Toros

Plaza de Toros

Valencia feria

Valencia Day parade

Valencia Day parade

It was a day off. We were only going out for a bite to eat, but we got stuck on the wrong side of a parade. We couldn’t cross the street to get to the restaurant we had selected.

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What the heck! We’re here, we might as well enjoy it.

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We are not parade people. We’re allergic to crowds. So this really tested our fortitude. It was actually kind of fun. From what we could understand, it was Valencia Day – a celebration of the communidad’s (state’s) history. We saw several signs that said “Moros y Cristianos,” so I guess they were celebrating their Moorish and Christian roots. That’s nice to see, in this day and age. People in the parade were dressed in various costumes, both Moorish and Christian, from the past thirteen centuries.

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How cool to have such a varied history, and how wonderful to celebrate it so many years later!

Bravest thing I’ve ever done while traveling

"Oh, my cut!"

“Oh, my cut!”

Walked into a hair salon and got a brand new do! When you’re away from home for three months, there comes a time when you just have to get your hair cut. It can be scary to step outside the comfort of your relationship with your hairdresser at home and hope someone new understands what you want, but it’s even scarier when you don’t speak the language.

We were walking through the streets of Valencia and spotted an open hair salon. Marcus said, “Didn’t you say you wanted to get your hair cut?”

“Yes, I did. Let’s do it!”

Those of you who know me well know I rarely do anything impulsively. I shop around, I think, I wait, then (maybe) I do. But I had a good feeling about this. I walked in the door where two hairstylists were blowdrying away. “Does anyone here speak English?” The woman I asked this of pointed to Grace. I asked Grace if she could take a walk-in. “Take a number,” she said, pointing to a machine like you see in so many crowded shops here in Spain, especially the busy mobile phone stores or tourist information. Within ten minutes I was sitting in Grace’s chair telling her what I wanted. I spoke Spanish; she spoke English. It worked.

I didn’t just get it trimmed; I went for a whole new style. Off with the longer ends and sides that are so difficult to keep styled while traveling. “I want it shorter here and here,” I explained and left the rest up to her.

Grace didn’t hesitate. She picked up the scissors and went to work, and then she blew it dry in the cutest style. “Oh, my cut!” That’s the name of the salon, and for good reason. I love it! I walked out of the salon feeling on top of the world. It amazing what a good cut can do.

Where paella was born

paella valenciana

paella valenciana for two

Had to have a true paella valenciana as Valencia is where paella was born. This is rice country. The Albufera estuary, just west of Valencia, is full of rice paddies. Most people associate paella with shellfish, but the true Valenciana paella includes chicken, rabbit, and snails. Okay, we had to forego the snails (thank goodness!) because Marcus is allergic, but other than that, this was the real thing.

Most restaurants in Valencia serve paella. There are some restaurants dedicated to it, called arrocerías (arróz is rice). I had never had “the real thing” and we were at a craft brewery, but it was on the menu and the timing was right. It was fantastic! Cooked perfectly from scratch after we ordered. It took about 45 minutes, but that gave us some time to enjoy a few genuine IPAs. Perfect meal in Valencia!

Tarragona

Circus Maximus, Tarragona

Circus Maximus, Tarragona

IMG_5708Nice stop in Tarragona as we made our way from Barcelona to Valencia. Tarragona was once a capital of Roman Spain, the first to be toga-certified. Residents were allowed to wear togas, meaning they were considered to be full Roman citizens. Maybe it was the wine. Now that I think about it, Rome may have conquered all the Mediterranean countries just for the wine and olive oil. Can’t say I blame them. It’s a strong motivation!

the Roman amphitheater - nice backdrop!

the Roman amphitheater – nice backdrop!