The Vikings have landed

Reginald’s Tower, the original Viking settlement in Waterford (courtesy of TripAdvisor)

There’s much talk of the British occupation of Ireland. It did, after all, last for 800 years, nearly wipe out the Irish race, and end only a century ago. Less devastating, and also less well known, was the Viking occupation of Ireland (okay, mostly the south and east) just prior to the British occupation. The Vikings were here for over 1000 years, and were generally well received.

A brief history and geography lesson: Ireland was never part of the Roman Empire, although England was. Only 47 miles, the width of the Irish Sea, separate the two countries, yet the Romans never bothered to make the trip over to take Ireland. Maybe it was because Ireland was too remote from the rest of Europe, adrift on its own in the Atlantic, or maybe the stories of the crazed Irish warriors who rode naked and screaming into battle was a bit too much for their civilized sensibilities. Regardless, Ireland was, for the most part, left to its own devices, which means the Irish were free to tend their cattle, enjoy a good céilí (shindig) now and then, and take in as much craic (fun) as they could handle. Apart from the occasional cattle raid or dethroning a king or two, they led a fairly peaceful existence. Which left them wide open to invasion by Vikings.

inside Reginald’s tower, an excellent Viking museum

The Vikings were quite accomplished sailors and were bound to want to explore (i.e. pillage and plunder) the vast Atlantic coastline sooner or later. They started popping in on their Irish neighbors to the south in the 8th century, and quickly discovered that the Irish monasteries held a wealth of treasures: beautifully illuminated manuscripts, objects made of Irish gold, and other glorious things. By the 10th century, the Vikings began contemplating permanent settlement on this emerald island with so many natural, deep-water harbors. In 914 they chose a location on the southern coast and named it Wetherfjord (literally “rams fjord,” later anglicized to Waterford), built a round tower fortress with an enclosed camp, and settled in for a long and happy life. The Vikings accepted the local Christian religion, intermarried with the local people, and established the first cities, or commercial centers, in Ireland, a concept foreign to the native cattle farmers.

They were quite content for over 1000 years, until one of the Irish kings who was deposed of his kingdom, which included Waterford, by the High King of Ireland decided to take it back. In 1170, Diarmait Mac Murchada and a Welsh mercenary, Richard de Clare (aka Strongbow), took Waterford from the Vikings. Mac Murchada died shortly afterward and his holdings, and daughter, went to Strongbow as promised in return for his help. Henry II, king of England, a little concerned that this upstart Welsh mercenary was taking lands that he felt rightly belonged to England, decided to pay a visit to Ireland. Thus began the official British occupation.

odd-looking Viking we encountered in Waterford

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