SeagullTV

view of birdland from our apartment

Our apartment in Belfast was on the ninth floor of the building. A tiny place, just snug enough for two, it was one room wide. One wall in the main living area was all window. The couch faced the window so that sitting there was like watching the city unfold on the big screen. I loved sitting on that couch. It’s where I blogged, read, paid bills, and did just about everything in the apartment but eat and sleep. I had a front row seat to the world, 135 feet above the pavement.

We saw a lot of birds. Seagulls mostly. Swooping and diving just on the other side of the glass. It was startling at first—a bird coming at you at 25 mph will wake you out of a proofreading stupor in a flash! Yet they always diverted in the nick of time.

We gradually got used to the bird traffic. It appeared to be especially heavy in the early evening. One evening, as I gazed out on my domain, I noticed two seagulls on the wall of an apartment balcony across the street. She sat contentedly on the wall; he landed next to her. She moved to the opposite end of the wall. He approached. She moved farther away. He retreated. She advanced an inch at a time until they were only a foot apart. He flew away. How coy!

I watched this avian soap opera develop across the way over several days. Often there was one bird. Sometimes two. Sometimes one would launch, as if the urge to stretch her wings was suddenly more than she could bear. Sometimes five seagulls would swoop by in formation and abruptly spiral vertically upward. But there always seemed to be one seagull on the balcony wall overlooking the flat roof of the building next to it.

One day I saw her descend to the low wall that surrounds the rooftop on three sides. She sat for hours, content to watch the world go by. Why doesn’t she leave, I wondered, fly around like the rest? And then I noticed the gravel on the rooftop moving. What? I picked up the binoculars. There were three little balls of gray fluff pecking in the gray gravel of the roof. All that time, on the balcony and roof wall below, she was watching over her brood.

Can you spot the three chicks on the roof?

I was obsessed with the baby birds. Every morning, first thing, I’d scan the rooftop for them. It worried me that there was no protective wall on the front edge of the building. They slept in a cluster of weeds at the front left corner, for Pete’s sake. If they roll over in their sleep…. Mama didn’t appear to be concerned. But she was always just a few feet away. I know how mamas think, and I’m sure her nonchalance was just a ruse to foster independence in her chicks.

This morning I said goodbye to all my birds as we vacated the apartment. I wished the babies good luck with the flying thing when it’s time. Practice beforehand, I advised, and stay away from the edge until you know you’ve got it down. And I wished Mama peace and consolation when it’s time for them to go.

New heights

Belfast Castle

For our last walk in Ireland I chose Belfast Castle. Not a castle built for royalty, it was built in the 19th century by the 3rd Marquess of Donegall. And in 1934 it was presented to the City of Belfast, which usually indicates financial difficulties on the part of the owner.

The castle was not open to the public on the day we were there, in preparation for a wedding that evening. But we weren’t there for the castle, which is a good thing. The visitor center was extremely limited in scope. The brief video wouldn’t play. The staff member shrugged. Sometimes it does. Sometimes it doesn’t.

We were there for the hike. Belfast Castle was built on the face of Cave Hill and offers fantastic views of Belfast and Belfast Lough, especially at the top of the hill at McArt’s Fort, which today is just a few rocks on a promontory. I’d love to tell you more about its history, but there were technical difficulties at the visitor center….

It was the perfect hike for us. Three hours, 900 feet of elevation gain to get the heart pumping, gorgeous views, and sunshine.

McArt’s Fort

When we got to McArt’s fort, there were four guys trying to assemble a kite. Marcus watched them struggle until he couldn’t stand it any longer. “Who’s the engineer?” he asked. They all laughed. Not an engineering gene amongst them. 

“I’m a clinical psychologist,” one of the guys quipped. “I can help if you need to know how we feel about making this kite.” They all laughed.

“What kind of a knot are you planning to use on that harness?” Harness?

Marcus put down his hiking sticks and shed his camera. I knew we were in for the long haul. The guys watched in wonder as he pulled his multitool from one of his cargo pockets, cut string, and tied knots that would knock the socks off a sailor.

“Should these stays be bowed inward or outward?” he asked. Stays?

“I think it would be more aerodynamic if they bowed inward.” Sure, sure, they chimed in as they watched over his shoulder.

Thirty minutes later, the kite was constructed and Marcus was instructing them on the rudiments of flight. Their eyes glazed over.

“You know, trying to launch a kite on the edge of a cliff is a bit dicey,” he counseled. “You might want to try it on more level ground, where you have room to run with it.” Yeah, thanks mate. We’re good. Cheers!

view of Belfast Lough behind the big heads

We continued our walk. Every now and then we’d hear a cheer in the distance and look back. The kite would get some wind, and then nosedive back to earth.

the city of Belfast with the Mourne Mountains to the south

Of all the things I love about Ireland, I’ll miss walking the most. Every good-weather day (probability of rain less than 50%) we’d find a trail within 50 miles of where we were. We were out in it three or four times a week. And with each walk you never knew what, or who, you’d find. As with this three-month journey of ours, there’s an adventure waiting around every bend in the trail.

There’s a wall?

Welcome to West Belfast

A Canadian couple we met on this trip heard we would be traveling to Belfast and highly recommended the Black Taxi tour of the city. “It will give you a good perspective of the Troubles.” I was especially interested in taking in Belfast’s experience after learning a bit about Derry’s. I expected murals and other artifacts of the riots and violence that rocked Belfast in the late 20th century. What I didn’t expect was a wall.

This building was gutted by petrol bombs in the 1970s. Now they have a wall to protect them.

A three-mile “peace” wall, no less. 45 feet high in some places and topped by razor wire and other sharp objects. Heavy iron gates, manned by video surveillance, are opened during the day. But at night, when there is a greater propensity for violence, they are locked tight as a prison cell. Over the years they have reduced the number of gates from 20-something to two. Tighter security or tighter control? 

Access through this gate is no longer an option.

The wall cuts through the heart of West Belfast. Nationalists live on the south side. Unionists on the north. (I’ve stopped calling them Catholics and Protestants because, as our Black Taxi guide told us, this issue has nothing to do with religion.)

The wall was first built in 1969 after the outbreak of violence during civil rights protests. It was only meant to stand for six months. Okay, I get that. But because the wall was effective in reducing the number of conflicts at the time, they built it longer, taller, and more permanent. That I don’t get. And since the Good Friday peace agreement in 1998, which I thought was working of its own accord—albeit tenuously—the wall has been fortified further. There is talk from the Northern Ireland Executive of taking the wall down by 2023, but the locals are not optimistic. It continues to grow in length as West Belfast expands toward the mountains.

I can’t believe there’s a wall! In all my reading, nothing was said about it. No one has mentioned it. I was shocked. I barely noticed the murals. I couldn’t focus on what our guide was telling us. I couldn’t think of what questions to ask. 

Peace wall—a political oxymoron. In Derry, a peace bridge celebrates a peace agreement with art that bridges—geographically, if not yet ideologically—two parts of the city. It’s open, it’s accessible, it’s optimistic. A wall, no matter what word you tack in front of it, promotes nothing but segregation and alienation. 

We talked to a guy here in Belfast who told us that when he was growing up in the 70s, all the schools were either Catholic or Protestant. You didn’t get to know kids from the other side of the wall in the intimacy of a classroom. You certainly didn’t attend church with them. And you didn’t play with them on the streets or sports fields. The lesson learned was: They’re different; stay away from them. The first step toward peace, he said, is to start living with them side by side, get to know them, and come to accept them. Only then can the wall come down. 

It will take generations to accept the differences and forget the hate. Peace won’t come from politicians on a certain date; it can only come from within in its own time.

Belfast

Our last stop on this beautiful island. We couldn’t have picked a better city in which to wind up our trip. Belfast, with a population of around 350,000, is not a large city, but it’s just perfect for us. It has plenty to offer in the way of art, architecture, history, culture, and outdoor activities, and it is incredibly walkable. We’re staying in an apartment a half-mile south of city hall, and our car hasn’t left the parking lot.

Our favorite section of Belfast is the Cathedral Quarter. Off its main roads are small alleyways called “entries” that draw you in by virtue of their snugness. I feel compelled to wander down them, exploring their boutiques, restaurants, and pubs.

The River Lagan waterfront has undergone a major renovation in recent years, beginning with the river itself. A weir was built across the river to allow for control of the tidal river’s water level, making the shallower stretch upstream of the harbor a friendlier place for wildlife, small boat traffic, and development. We chatted for a while with a guy who works at the weir, and he asked us if we wanted a behind-the-scenes tour. Heck, yah! He took us down into the maintenance tunnel that runs under the weir. We walked from bank to bank underneath the river!

The city has commissioned art pieces for the waterfront area as well, including my old friend, the Salmon of Knowledge. [Finn’s Causeway]

Over the centuries, the structure of the river has been straightened and deepened to accommodate increasingly larger ships in the busy harbor. Shipbuilding, a mainstay of Belfast’s economy for centuries, reached a pinnacle in the early 20th century when emigration peaked in Ireland. In 1907 the White Star Line authorized the construction of three Olympic-class luxury liners to assist in the transport of emigrants to America. The second of the three was the HMS Titanic built by Harland & Wolff ship builders in Belfast between 1909 and 1912.

In 2012, the centennial year of Titanic’s maiden voyage and tragic sinking in the North Atlantic, Titanic Belfast, a museum commemorating not only the Titanic phenom but also Belfast’s shipbuilding industry, opened on property that once belonged to Harland & Wolff. We can attest to the quality of the exhibits; we spent three hours taking it all in. We also had lunch in the new Titanic Belfast Hotel on the property, built in the refurbished White Star Line offices. Very classy! 

What was formerly known as Queen’s Island, home to Belfast’s prolific shipbuilding industry, has been renamed the Titanic Quarter and has been a huge boon to Belfast’s tourism industry. The two large, yellow Harland & Wolff (H&W) gantry cranes, nicknamed Samson and Goliath, are no longer in use, as shipbuilding has all but died in Belfast, but were left standing to pay tribute to the industry that made Belfast a major world city. They’re visible from many places throughout the city, and we’re always delighted to see them peeking around a corner.